Sardinia is not an island you visit in a weekend. And not really in a week either, to be honest — but seven days is the minimum to go beyond the postcards and see the real Sardinia. The one with coves reachable only on foot, shepherds making cheese the same way they did 200 years ago, and beaches that rival the Caribbean without the 10-hour flight.
This itinerary covers three distinct zones: the wild South around Cagliari, the eastern coast of Ogliastra (the most spectacular on the island), and the North with Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena. It's a road trip — you'll need a rental car — and each day is built to balance beach, exploration, and great food.
Before You Go: The Practical Stuff
Getting There
By air: The three main airports are Cagliari-Elmas (south), Olbia-Costa Smeralda (northeast), and Alghero-Fertilia (northwest). This itinerary starts in Cagliari and ends in Alghero — ideal for avoiding backtracking.
Direct flights from major Italian cities:
| Route | Duration | Price (one-way) | Airlines |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rome → Cagliari | 1h 05m | €25-80 | Ryanair, Volotea, ITA |
| Milan → Cagliari | 1h 20m | €25-90 | Ryanair, easyJet, ITA |
| Naples → Cagliari | 1h 10m | €20-70 | Ryanair, Volotea |
| Turin → Cagliari | 1h 15m | €25-85 | Ryanair, Volotea |
By ferry: From Civitavecchia (Rome), Genoa, Livorno, or Naples. Overnight ferries are an option if you want to bring your own car — but renting in Sardinia is often cheaper.
| Route | Duration | Price (car + 2 people) | Companies |
|---|---|---|---|
| Civitavecchia → Cagliari | 7-14h | €80-180 | Tirrenia, Grimaldi |
| Genoa → Porto Torres | 11-12h | €90-200 | Tirrenia, GNV |
| Livorno → Olbia | 6-8h | €70-160 | Moby, Tirrenia |
Tip: Book ferries 2-3 months ahead for peak season. Prices double in the final weeks.
Rental Car
Essential. Public transport in Sardinia exists but doesn't cover beaches and inland areas. Budget €30-60/day for a compact car, more in peak season.
Where to rent: Directly at Cagliari airport. Return at Alghero (the one-way surcharge is usually €30-50).
Fuel: Stations are frequent along main roads, less so in inland areas. Don't head to Ogliastra with an empty tank.
Daily Budget (Per Person)
| Expense | Budget | Mid-Range | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation/night | €25-50 (camping/hostel) | €50-90 (B&B/agriturismo) | €120-250 (hotel/villa) |
| Food/day | €20-35 | €35-60 | €70-120 |
| Car + fuel/day | €20-30 | €30-45 | €50-80 |
| Activities/day | €0-15 | €15-40 | €40-80 |
| Daily total | €65-130 | €130-235 | €280-530 |
7-day total: €455-910 (budget), €910-1,645 (mid-range), €1,960-3,710 (high). Excluding flights.
When to Go
- June and September: The sweet spot. Warm water, manageable beaches, reasonable prices. September is often the best month — sea still warm, fewer tourists, perfect light.
- July-August: Crowded beaches, doubled prices, traffic on the SS125. If you have no alternative, focus on less-visited areas like Ogliastra.
- May and October: Ideal for hiking and exploring without extreme heat. The sea is still swimmable in October in the south.
- Avoid: November-March for beaches. Many facilities close off-season.
Day 1: Cagliari — Capital of the South
Morning: Old Town and Castello
You arrive in Cagliari. Pick up your car at the airport and head to the center. Park in the Marina district (paid parking on Via Roma) and walk up toward the Castello quarter.
- Bastione di Saint Remy: The most beautiful panoramic terrace in the city. Views across all of Cagliari and the gulf. Free, always open.
- Cathedral of Santa Maria: Reconstructed Romanesque facade, Baroque interior. Free.
- Torre dell'Elefante: One of two 13th-century Pisan towers. €3, spectacular views.
Spend an hour wandering the streets of Castello. It's the oldest quarter, with Catalan-era buildings and artisan workshops.
Lunch
Head down to the Marina district and find a seafood restaurant. Real Cagliari isn't in the touristy waterfront spots — go into the side streets. Look for local dishes: fregola con arselle (Sardinian pasta with clams), bottarga di muggine (mullet roe), malloreddus alla campidanese (Sardinian gnocchi with sausage ragù).
Lunch budget: €12-25 per person.
Afternoon: Poetto Beach
Cagliari's urban beach stretches for 8 km. It's not as wild as the northern coves, but it's convenient, the water is clean, and the beach clubs are reasonably priced. Relax after your journey.
If you want something more scenic, drive 30 minutes to Calamosca — a small cove with crystal-clear water at the entrance to the gulf.
Evening
Dinner in the Marina or Stampace district. Cagliari locals eat late — 9 PM is early. After dinner, stroll along the Via Roma waterfront or grab a drink at the Bastione.
Where to sleep: Cagliari center (Marina or Castello district). B&B from €40-70/night for a double.
Day 2: Villasimius and Costa Rei
Morning: Villasimius (45 min from Cagliari)
Drive southeast along the SP17, one of the most beautiful coastal roads on the island. Destination: Villasimius, the epicenter for anyone dreaming of southern Sardinia.
The main beach is Simius — white sand, turquoise water, shallow seabed. Arrive by 9 AM in high season to secure a spot.
Wilder alternative: Punta Molentis, a few kilometers away. Pink sand beach with views of Isola dei Cavoli. Paid parking (€5-8).
Afternoon: Costa Rei
Head north along the eastern coast. Costa Rei has 10 km of continuous beach with water that looks like an Instagram filter — except it's real. The Scoglio di Peppino is the most photographed spot: a rock emerging from the turquoise water.
Evening
Stop in Muravera for dinner. It's an agricultural town inland — citrus, artichokes, and honest food at fair prices.
Where to sleep: Villasimius or Costa Rei. Alternatively, head toward Ogliastra to shorten the next day's drive. B&B €45-90/night.
Day 3: Ogliastra — The Most Beautiful Coast
Morning: Cala Goloritzé
This is the highlight day. Cala Goloritzé is often cited among the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean, and for good reason. The only way to reach it is a hiking trail of about 1 hour (3.5 km, 470 m descent). Starting point: Supramonte di Baunei trailhead.
- Difficulty: Moderate. You need hiking shoes, not flip-flops.
- Entry fee: €6 per person (advance booking required in high season at vivaticket.com)
- What to bring: Water (at least 1.5 liters each), packed lunch, sunscreen, hiking shoes
- Recommended start: Before 8 AM to avoid the heat on the climb back
The water is incredibly transparent. The natural rock pinnacle rising from the sea is the symbol of Ogliastra. Bring a snorkel and mask.
Afternoon: Climb back and relax
The return climb takes 1-1.5 hours. After the effort, stop at Santa Maria Navarrese, a quiet fishing village with a small harbor and accessible beaches for a final swim.
Evening
Dinner in Baunei or Santa Maria Navarrese. Try culurgiones — Sardinian ravioli stuffed with potatoes, mint, and pecorino. They're Ogliastra's signature dish.
Where to sleep: Santa Maria Navarrese or Baunei. B&B €40-70/night. Book ahead for July-August.
Day 4: Cala Luna and Bue Marino Caves
Morning: Cala Luna by boat
Today you see the sea from the water. From Cala Gonone, boats depart for a tour of the Gulf of Orosei coves. The standard ticket includes stops at Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu, and Cala Sisine.
- Boat cost: €25-40 per person for the full tour (half-day or full-day)
- Departure: Cala Gonone harbor, first boat at 9 AM
- Alternative: Private dinghy with skipper (€150-250 for 4-6 people, more freedom on stops)
Cala Luna is Goloritzé's famous twin. A wide beach nestled between natural caves and sea cliffs. Arrive early = less crowds.
Afternoon: Bue Marino Caves
If your boat stops at the caves, visit the Grotte del Bue Marino — a system of sea caves with stalactites reflected in the water. The guided tour takes about 1 hour.
- Cost: €10 (adult)
- Access: By sea only, from Cala Gonone harbor
Evening
Dinner in Cala Gonone or Dorgali (the inland town — more authentic and less touristy). Porceddu (spit-roasted suckling pig) is the dish to try in this area.
Where to sleep: Cala Gonone. Hotel/B&B €50-100/night.
Day 5: Costa Smeralda
Morning: Transfer North (2.5 h)
Drive from Cala Gonone north along the SS131 then the SS125/SS127. The landscape changes: from wild Ogliastra to the pink granite hills of Gallura.
Arrive at the Costa Smeralda by mid-morning. The coast is famous for luxury, but you don't need to be a millionaire to enjoy it.
Costa Smeralda beaches
Pick one or two:
- Spiaggia del Principe (Arzachena): Probably the most beautiful in the area. White sand, emerald water. Paid parking (€5-10), arrive early.
- Capriccioli (Arzachena): Twin coves with granite rocks. Less crowded than Principe.
- Liscia Ruja (Arzachena): Long and spacious, great for avoiding crowds.
- Romazzino (Porto Cervo): Small but scenic.
Afternoon: Porto Cervo
Walk around Porto Cervo, the heart of the Costa Smeralda. It's the port of super yachts and luxury boutiques — worth a stroll even without buying anything. The Piazzetta is the social center. A coffee here costs double, but the people-watching is worth it.
If you have time, detour to Porto Rotondo — less ostentatious than Porto Cervo, more relaxed.
Evening
To dine without spending a fortune on the Costa Smeralda, head to Arzachena (10 minutes inland). Restaurants with Gallurese cuisine at normal prices. Zuppa gallurese (a kind of bread and cheese lasagna) is the local dish.
Where to sleep: Arzachena or Cannigione (cheaper than Porto Cervo). B&B €55-110/night.
Day 6: Maddalena Archipelago
Full day: La Maddalena and Caprera
From Palau (20 min from Arzachena), take the ferry to La Maddalena. Ferries run every 15-30 minutes.
- Ferry Palau → La Maddalena: €12-16 round trip per person (car €30-40 round trip, but you can go without)
- Duration: 20 minutes
On La Maddalena island:
- Drive around the island by car or scooter (scooter rental €30-50/day on the island)
- Spiaggia Rosa (Budelli): Only visible from a boat — landing is banned to protect the pink seabed. Boat tours from La Maddalena cost €30-50 and also cover Spargi and Santa Maria.
- Cala Coticcio (Caprera): Reachable on foot via a 30-minute trail. Nicknamed "the Tahiti of the Mediterranean." Limited access — book at vivaticket.com.
On Caprera island (connected to La Maddalena by a bridge):
- Garibaldi Museum-House: The residence where Giuseppe Garibaldi lived. €5, interesting even if you're not a history buff.
- Cala Napoletana and Cala Serena: Less-visited Caprera beaches, reachable with short walks.
Evening
Return to La Maddalena town for aperitivo on the waterfront. The evening scene here is genuine — sailors, local families, no VIPs.
Where to sleep: La Maddalena (if you want to enjoy the morning on the island) or return to Palau/Arzachena. B&B €45-90/night.
Day 7: Alghero and Departure
Morning: Transfer to Alghero (1.5 h)
From Palau/Arzachena drive west. The scenic road crosses inland Gallura — cork forests, stone walls, silence.
Alghero: Sardinia's Little Barcelona
Alghero is different from the rest of Sardinia. The Catalan-Aragonese influence is felt in the old town streets, the alley names, the menus. They still speak Algherese here, a Catalan dialect.
- Old town: Walk along the walls (the seaside bastions are spectacular at sunset, but beautiful in the morning too), enter the Cathedral, get lost in the lanes.
- Neptune's Grotto: If you have time, take a boat from the harbor (€16, 45-min sail + visit) or descend the 654 steps of the Escala del Cabirol. The caves are among the most beautiful in the Mediterranean.
- Lunch: Aragosta alla catalana (Alghero's signature dish — Catalan-style lobster). For a full lunch, expect €25-40 per person.
Afternoon
Final beach: Le Bombarde or Mugoni (10 minutes from Alghero). Light sand, pine forest behind, turquoise water. The perfect farewell to Sardinia.
Return the car at Alghero-Fertilia airport (15 minutes from the center) and fly home.
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Final Tips
- Book capacity-limited beaches (Goloritzé, Cala Coticcio, La Pelosa) well in advance, especially for July-August.
- Bring hiking shoes. Many of the best beaches are only reachable on foot.
- The SS125 eastern road is slow. Beautiful, but full of curves. Budget double the time Google Maps suggests.
- Eat inland. The most authentic and affordable restaurants aren't by the sea. Agriturismos are the best way to eat in Sardinia.
- The water really is that beautiful. A snorkel and mask are mandatory. Leaving them behind would be like going to Florence and skipping the Uffizi.
