Nairobi

Nairobi has a 'Nairobbery' reputation that's outdated for tourist areas but real for blind spots. Karen, Westlands, Lavington, Kilimani, Gigiri (UN zone), and the CBD by day are fine. Avoid Eastleigh, River Road after dark, and the slums (Kibera, Mathare) unless on a guided tour with a local NGO. Always use Uber or Bolt instead of street hailing taxis or matatus at night. Never display phones/cameras in the CBD or in traffic jams (smash-and-grab at lights is the most common crime). Most safari operators handle airport pickups — accept that rather than improvising.

Yes — since January 2024 Kenya requires every visitor (including African Union citizens previously exempt) to obtain an Electronic Travel Authorization (eTA) at etakenya.go.ke. Cost US$30 single-entry, 90 days. Apply at least 3 days before departure with passport scan, return flight, and accommodation. Yellow fever vaccination is required if arriving from a yellow fever country (most African countries plus parts of South America). The old visa-on-arrival no longer exists.

July-October is peak: dry savanna concentrates animals at remaining water, and the Great Migration's Mara River crossings happen August-September (the iconic croc-vs-wildebeest scenes). January-February is the secondary peak — also dry, fewer tourists, and Amboseli's Kilimanjaro views are clearest. Avoid April-May long rains (lodges close, roads flood); November short rains are tolerable. For Mara migration specifically, book lodges 6-12 months ahead — top conservancies (Mara North, Olare Motorogi) fill first.